FAQs
Got questions? Here, I endeavor to answer some of the most common questions as well as some not-so-common-but-useful ones. You can always reach out if you don't find the answers you need.
I think I would like to work with you, but I'm not sure. What is the first step?
The first step is to look through these FAQs to see if any of your questions are answered here. Then, please schedule a complimentary phone call so we can talk a bit and see if we are a good fit for one another. You can schedule a call on the "Book Online" page. You can also email me anytime at julie@wildrootlandscapes.com. I'll be sure to respond within 24 hours. I look forward to getting to know you!
What is the difference between what you call "traditional/conventional" landscaping and landscaping using native plants?
Traditional landscaping - variations of lawn and clipped hedges - came to the Americas from Europe and harken back to a time when only the rich could afford highly-manicured, artificial landscapes. Large expanses of lawn were a status symbol. Today, that is no longer the case. In general, lawn is something we plant when we don't know what else to do. We want to be good stewards of our resources by conserving water and supporting local wildlife. We can combine various design styles - Formal, English, Modern, Cottage, Mediterranean, etc - with a native plant palette to great effect. Think of a beautifully-designed paver patio with a pondless waterfall on its edge, nestled among elevated rock gardens billowing with native plants. Doesn't that sound better than green wall-to-wall carpeting? Native landscapes are installed a bit differently than traditional landscaping. We work with the seasonal cycle to establish plants - choosing hyper-local plants for most situations and planting in late fall before winter precipitation arrives. Late fall to early winter is the very best time to plant our native plants. Depending on the time of year your project starts, we might install everything else first and wait several months for optimal planting time. Native plants are typically smaller and more fragile than garden center plants, so careful planting is very important. Smaller plants establish better in the landscape. Believe me, it's worth the wait!
Garden coaching or design consultation - what's the difference?
Garden coaching is for homeowners who want to do the work themselves and do not require a design. It often includes help with general garden layout, garden management, plant selection, plant care, soil health/testing, and troubleshooting. It may also include hands-on demonstrations and even nursery visits depending on the situation. Design consultations are for homeowners who want to completely remodel a large portion of their landscape - whole front yard, backyard, or entire property. They want a detailed plan that they can then refer to when they are installing the landscaping themselves or send it out for bid.
Do you install?
Yes, I do! However, I only install my own designs and only projects that involve at least 50% Columbia Basin native plants. I work with some great landscaping companies for everything except the native plants - those I plant myself at the appropriate time of the year. If you are interested in planting your own plants once the rest of the landscaping is installed, I'm happy to coach you through that process so you can be confident you are doing all you can to make sure your little plants thrive.
Do you take small projects? I just need a few plant suggestions for a planting bed.
Happy to help you select plants for your garden bed. That would fall under a garden coaching session. You can book a session on the "book online" page.
How much do you charge for your services?
Garden coaching is $100 for a 1-hour session. Design consultations are $150 for a 1-hour session and the cost is credited toward the design fee should you choose to hire me. Residential design services, which always include 3D, start at $1800 for either the front or backyard. Entire property starts at $2200. Commercial designs that are 50% native do not typically include 3D and start at $1500. These prices might seem high, but you can spend $200 on 8 plants at a nursery or spend $10K-$100K on remodeling your landscape. Wouldn't you like to know which plants to buy or how to get the most out of your $10K-$100K?
When you say "native plants", what do you mean?
"Native" refers to indigenous plants - plants that have lived in the Columbia Basin since before colonial settlement. Depending on your property's microclimates, I may expand plant recommendations to include natives from other parts of Washington, Idaho or Oregon.
Where can I learn more about the Columbia Basin and native plants/pollinators?
WA Department of Natural Resources - great Columbia Basin overview
Columbia Basin Chapter of the Washington Native Plant Society - info on plants and plant-related activities
Heritage Garden Program, Benton Conservation District - info on plants and becoming a Heritage Garden
Pollinator Partnership - broad info on pollinators of the intermountain semidesert province
Xerces Society - bee info​​
Native plant nurseries and seed sources?
Tapteal Native Plants - small, Tri-cities nursery with a very nice selection of hyper-local native plants
Plants of the Wild - native plant nursery in Tekoa, WA; shipping options
Derby Canyon Natives - native plant nursery not far from Leavenworth, WA
BFI Native Seeds - seed supplier in Moses Lake, WA; shipping options
Desert Jewels Nursery - native plant nursery in the Spokane Valley
How much do native plants cost?
Native plants come in a variety of sizes and prices. For example, a Sulphur Buckwheat in a 10ci pot can be purchased for about $5 whereas a Sagebrush in a two-gallon pot can cost $26. It just depends on the type of plant and desired size at planting. Additional fees for delivery and planting apply.
How much does hardscape cost?
You can get a ballpark idea of what you should expect your landscaping project to cost based on a few factors: Access: Are you wanting to replace your entire backyard but only have a 4' wide gate? Any wise contractor will consider the cost of creating a pathway for machinery/materials and you should too. Consider the cost to remove and reinstall a section of fence, replace lawn/plantings, or remove and reassemble a flagstone/paver walkway. On steep slopes, a temporary retaining wall may need to be installed to provide stable access for a skid steer or excavator. The cost of creating access and then fixing the landscaping afterward can range from $800 (fence section and lawn) to $5000 or more. ​​ Demolition & Site Prep: For hardscape amenities like patios, there is almost always some material that needs to be removed. Lawn may need to be removed for planting bed creation. Excavation/earth moving for retaining walls. Costs usually range from $1800 to $5000 for small to medium-sized projects. ​​ Utilities: Will your project require an electrician for hot tub hook up or a gas plumber for a propane fire pit? Their services can vary from $400 for a single electrical outlet to $2000 or more for a gas line connection. ​​ Here are some common landscape amenities in the Tri-cities area. Pricing includes material and installation costs: ​ Segmental Block Walls: These vary from short free-standing walls to non-engineered retaining walls, to engineered walls of various heights. Costs range from $30 to $100 per square foot. ​ Pavers: Pavers come in a variety of shapes and colors and the combinations are endless. The benefits of pavers over concrete is that a section can be easily replaced if damaged whereas concrete cannot. Expect to pay between $18 to $25 per square foot for pavers. Around $13 for broom-finished concrete. Stamped and stained concrete is close to the cost of pavers. ​​ Propane Fire Pit: Fire pits can be solid steel, made of concrete block, or formed concrete. Add a gas line and you are likely looking at $3000 - $7000. ​​ Overhead Structures: Aluminum with a wood grain look is the best low-maintenance option for our area if you are not building a structure with a shingled roof as wood has a tendency to warp and crack in our summer heat. Expect to pay $45 - $75 or more per square foot. ​​ Water Features: A bubbling rock will cost around $1800 - $5000 whereas a small pondless waterfall will start around $5000. ​​ Irrigation: Costs range from $3000 to $5000 for a new system, timer to emitters. And there are always modifications to existing irrigation when planting beds are added or changed. ​​ Plantings: $200 - $500 per tree and $25 - $100 for perennials and shrubs. ​​ Rock Mulch: $150 - $200 per yard installed for native rock (basalt and river rock). Imported rock such as champagne rock is twice to three times the price per yard installed. ​ Fencing: Usually $20 - $50 per linear foot depending on the material chosen. ​ In-ground Pools: $60,000 and up depending on the type, size and amenities.
How do I go about replacing my lawn with native plants?
The most viable options are sod cutter, chemical kill (Glyphosate), or just turn off the lawn irrigation. Here in the Tri-cities, turning off the water for a season and applying native seed in late fall/early winter may be a good low-cost, healthier way to turn your lawn into a native grassland (early succession). Once the grasses area established, you can add shrubs, sub-shrubs like Eriogonums (buckwheats), and herbaceous flowering perennials like Munro's Globemallow.
What about irrigation? I want to conserve water, but I don't know where to start.
If you have an older irrigation system, chances are you have spray heads in your planting beds instead of drip irrigation. You can conserve a lot of water just by converting those zones to drip. However, drip irrigation requires extra care. If your irrigation water comes from an irrigation district rather than from the city, you will need good filtration that should be cleaned weekly during the growing season to keep your emitters from clogging. There is no substitution for a well-designed irrigation system. If your system is old, it might be time for an upgrade.
How do I maintain a native plant garden?
Maintenance for a native plant garden is quite different from traditional landscaping. It involves working with the land instead of against it. With a hyper-local native garden, there is no need for fertilizer or even irrigation (in most cases). You simply plant in the late fall and watch what happens. There is no need for pesticides because you won't have an abundance of the usual pests. And the small amount of pests you might have are left for the birds to eat. There is little to no fall clean up because you will be leaving the leaves, stems, and flower heads to help wildlife winter over. There are no lawn chores if we eliminate the lawn. There are spring weeds and even some in the winter if we have a mild season, but as your garden matures, there will be less of that. Native gardens are really about good stewardship of the land. Once all of the plants are in the ground, you will be monitoring their health, pulling some weeds, and just watching everything grow. Watching the insect population change drastically (in a good way).
Can I have native plants and keep some lawn?
Yes you can. Just keep in mind that lawn sprinklers always overspray into adjacent planting beds, especially when it is windy. Our hyper-local native plants like full sun and dry conditions, so plan accordingly.
I want to work with you, but I'm not interested in native plants. Would you still help me?
Yes, but I can't promise that I won't try to talk you into adding a few native plants to your landscape (wink wink). I do provide design services for traditional landscaping, I just don't participate in the installation process.